Winter in the Palms: A SoCal Escape That’s So Not L.A.
I’ll give it to you straight about Palm Springs. If you’re looking for a sunny vacation spot with eclectic night life and swanky, ultra-chic lounges, you can head to Los Angeles and call it day.
By contrast, the nightlife I found in Palm Springs consisted primarily of: dive bars offering karaoke and dance floors, but playing music you wouldn’t necessarily want to listen to all night; and casinos filled with interesting characters to people-watch, but people who you wouldn’t necessarily want to sit across from all night.
If, on the other hand, you’re looking for amazing weather, spas, breathtaking views and daytime adventures followed by tranquil evenings — then Palm Springs and the surrounding areas can easily be your haven.
Where to Stay for Spa and Play
After weighing my options, I decided to stay at the Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort which is located only about 20 minutes from the local airport. There are a lot of spa hotels to choose from in the area but not all of them boast a full waterpark complete with man-made beach, water slides and a lazy river populated with both kids and adults alike. If you need a break from the kids, there is also an adult pool and whirlpool featuring its own bar. It’s impossible to be bored in a place like this. The umbrella-to-guest ratio is high which means a lot to me and anyone else seeking some coverage from the penetrating desert sun (temperatures were in the low 90s during my November visit). The pools at Omni are inviting and warm, making it possible to enjoy them late into the day when the outside desert air eventually cools. In addition, there is a sprawling golf course, and a full spa offering various massages (life force and cactus healing, among others) as well as a guava sugar scrub and desert mud wrap.
The rooms are spacious and ornately decorated; mine overlooked the expansive golf course and was conveniently located near the hotel restaurant, Blu Ember. The cocktail list at Blu Ember is extensive and could overwhelm were it not for their customized cocktail grid on the menu. Consisting of four quadrants, the grid allows you identify both your palate and your current mood. It will then “match” you with the drinks in the corresponding quadrant so that you can easily narrow down your drink selection — genius! The lobster roll was particularly succulent: think copious amounts of tender lobster meat cascading (and at times, tumbling) out of a buttery roll, and served alongside golden fries crisped to perfection.
The resort is pet-friendly. Fellow guests gushed about how easy it was to bring their fur-ever besties along for the trip. Unlike other hotels, they were particularly appreciative of the fact that they could stay in any room — rather than only in designated pet-friendly accommodations.
A major highlight of my stay was running into DMC of the pioneering group, Run DMC in the hotel lobby. He was there randomly as a conference speaker and as a major hip-hop lover, I couldn’t have been more thrilled. While I can’t guarantee you the same chance encounter during your stay, you will certainly have and create your own moments. Plenty of them. Plus staying at a hotel where it’s possible to meet a hip hop legend while waiting for your Lyft is just a good idea.
We’re Gonna Need More Wine
The flat Palm Spring desert rises into shockingly mountainous topography; it would be ideal for a cliff chase sequence in a James Bond movie. One Sunday morning, while driving a particularly curvaceous terrain, I saw road signs highlighting every potential natural disaster — landslide, rocks-hitting-car, zig-zaggy-road, ice, and even a goat for good measure. With every cliff-hugging curve, my palms were sweating, which prevented me from gripping the wheel any more tightly than I already was. I blasted gospel music, adjusted the car visor to block out the penetrating sun-rays, and prayed for the interminable bends in the road to end.
That was actually my drive to Temecula Valley, otherwise known as Southern California’s Wine Country. It’s about a 2-hour drive from Palm Springs and provides an excursion-filled day of vineyard hopping and good eating. I opted for Temecula Valley Cable Car Tours, which transported us to 3 different vineyards aboard an actual cable car — think San Francisco, but with bubbles pumping and anthems blasting by Selena and Cyndi Lauper (yeah, you know the one). On the tour we learned quite a bit about how wine is made and processed. The techniques vary among the vineyards, as do the wines themselves. With multiple tastings at each stop it’s hard not to get a bit tipsy on the tour. Luckily, your ticket price includes a delicious, filling lunch, and the assistance of an incredibly lively and welcoming cable car staff. You should allocate a full day for this: the tour goes from 11am — 4pm, plus add in the 2 hour drive each way to and from Palm Springs.
A Food Oasis
All things considered, I still made it back to Palm Springs that night in time for one of my favorite dinners while there. The prix-fixe dinner menu at Farm (served only Thursday- Sunday) is seriously the hottest ticket in town. For $62, choose your way to 3 courses of culinary heaven. Each of my courses (wedge salad with bacon crumbles, flank steak with crisp rosemary potatoes and chocolate mousse cake) was more decadent than the last. I haven’t enjoyed a steak that succulent, tender and flavorful in quite some time. I can’t believe how delicious the food is while still being one of the more affordable dinner options within city limits. I also can’t wait to go again. As if the food wasn’t enough (and it is more than enough), the ambiance is the perfect wind-down. I dined al fresco in their charming outdoor garden while a folk singer crooned smooth covers of Norah Jones and Fleetwood Mac classics.
For authentic Mexican fare, follow the rows of colorful string lights to Las Cansuelas Terraza in the heart of the city. The margaritas are seriously sensational — try at least 2 flavors if you can manage it. I particularly enjoyed the margarita fresca (made with your choice of fresh fruit juices). For dinner, I ordered both the Barbacoa entree and the Grilled Shrimp Tacos, creating my very own “surf and turf” experience. I advise that you make reservations because this restaurant’s popularity hasn’t waned, despite its opening over 60 years ago. While enjoying your food and drink, a live band ensures that the atmosphere remains festive. Qué maravilloso!
Should you tire of the fancy meals and extravagant pricing, find your way to Karen’s Cafe for a delicious, traditional breakfast including eggs made-to-order, bacon, hash browns, or biscuits smothered in gravy. The endearing servers (Karen, included) will fuss over you the way your family does — making sure that everything is to your liking. And you will be pleased, not only with the food but also the affordable pricing. The food there was also the perfect fuel and pre-game for a full day at Joshua Tree National Park.
Joshua Tree National Park
The band U2 famously named their album after the tree found in this Park but when they sang “Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For” they could not have been speaking about the Park itself. There is so much to explore here — from the animal and plant life, to the sculpture gardens to naturally-occurring rock formations that look like sculptures, it’s a whole vibe and you’ll definitely end up with ‘gram-worthy pics. Plus — there’s a cooling breeze (a welcome surprise) that will accompany you on your hikes! And in this Covid-era, there is plenty of space to explore and discover nature’s wonders safely.
A short ride into the Park, I enjoyed the Cholla Cactus Garden with one major caveat: heed the warning signs and please do not touch the cacti. They are some of the most unique cacti you’ve ever seen so it will be tempting; but resist the urge to reach out and touch. And in fact, do not even walk closely enough to brush them with your clothing. During my visit, I encountered a man who had intentionally touched one. By the time I saw him, the thorns were deeply embedded in the flesh of his hand. It looked like a painful moment that everyone should avoid.
Make sure to take a few pictures with the famed Joshua Tree for which the Park is named. They are everywhere and provide the ideal desert backdrop from any angle, any shot.
My favorite moment in the Park was the Arch Rock: a stunning, majestic, and a just reward after a not-so-sweltering desert climb. It’s a gigantic, arch-like rock formation that looks more like a sculpture; a genuine work of art. Plan on a 45-minute drive into the Park, followed by a 15-minute hike along the Arch Rock trail. It’s a rocky road at times, but the Arch Rock is unforgettable and certainly worth driving and climbing for.
You can follow the writer on Instagram and Twitter at @culturebykaren.
