Sun-Chaser, Part One: Black Girl Meets Desert
“Sedona will kick your ass,” Margaret, our spiritual vortex guide, warned us (more on the vortexes later). “It will reveal things to you.” As we approached the red rocks of Sedona, the formations took on a purplish hue. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. The sun’s shadow, when cast against the rocks, gave them an ethereal quality that is to be witnessed and not merely described. I knew right then, that I had come to the right place.
The rocks and canyons of Sedona have been beckoning me for some time. And self discovery — spurred by growing COVID era challenges and social unrest in the nation — persisted, despite the fact that a global pandemic had sidelined my international travel plans. In August, an unexpected surgery and hospitalization left my body reeling. I began the slow, clumsy process of healing, and discovered many silver linings along the way. Among them? A higher vision for myself, a shuffling of priorities and a greater sense of gratitude. I vowed that when I was fully mobile and active again, I would embark upon a journey that spoke to my soul.
I was craving a spiritual quest: one that would allow me to focus on rest and wellness, but also meditation in nature. Bali had been my original choice for such a pilgrimage, but its borders were closed to American tourists at the time.
As months of quarantine, lockdown and travel restrictions stretched on, I considered domestic travel. Where could I find a place embodying the unique spiritual element of Bali but where I also felt safe given the growing pandemic? Instagram photos of red rock sunsets and the stunning walls of Antelope Canyon (cut and polished by river water over the course of centuries) pushed me towards Sedona and the surrounding desert cities.
Ultimately, a visit to Antelope Canyon was not possible. It rests on Navajo land and the disproportionate impact of the virus on the Navajo population meant that they were not entertaining visitors (and rightly so). Nevertheless, my trip to Arizona was already booked and the red rocks continued to whisper my name. I craved the powerful spiritual energy of the Sedona region, coupled with the relaxation of a desert spa retreat. Scottsdale with its lavish resorts, summer temperatures, and close proximity to the Phoenix airport, made it a natural fit. I added the city to my itinerary.
In the end, the trip exceeded my expectations and soothed my spirit in unanticipated ways. After months of limited mobility, the emotionally-charged images of racial injustice and an onslaught of political propaganda, my soul ached. I needed to release the anxiety, the anger and the stress. In a healthy and life-affirming way. Arizona afforded me an opportunity to do just that. Below, I share some of my trip highlights.
ATTRACTIONS AND EXCURSIONS
HOT AIR BALLOONING, SEDONA
Pick-up time was scheduled for 5:45 a.m. PST but considering that I was coming from the East Coast, it was an easy call time to manage. I got up and excitedly dressed with layers in preparation for the sudden temperature changes (October in Sedona means frigid mornings that transform into intensely hot afternoons). My excitement was partially an outgrowth of my own terror — I am acrophobic (afraid of heights) — so conquering this fear would be a personal “Mount Everest” for me.
Twelve of us climbed into one hot air balloon basket (arrangement and capacity is determined by each person’s body weight). Red Rock Balloons took an incredibly knowledgeable and yet playful approach to flying — which put me at ease even in spite of the risk waiver that I was required to sign. For safety reasons, the company requires all participants to wear masks. This is an experience to be lived — and not just read about — but what I can say is that the fear did not dissipate all at once. It stayed with me for at least the first twenty minutes, as I texted loved ones from the balloon and took photos with sweaty, unsteady palms. Eventually, as we floated with the wind and rose or fell at its whim, a peace overtook me. The views are stunning (to say the least) and the sight of wildlife going about their daily business soothed and distracted me. At the end of the voyage (our landing was soft and safe by the way!), we recited the Balloonist’s Prayer and toasted with multiple glasses of champagne. If you enjoy adventure, wildlife sightings and panoramic canyon views, I can’t recommend this emphatically enough.
VORTEX AND MEDICINE WHEEL TOUR, SEDONA
“Tell no one of what you have learned today,” our meditation guide instructed. “Not until it has become a part of you.” As a writer, that is a difficult instruction to follow but I can share that after the vortex healing retreat, I am bursting at the seams. I learned so much from the experience and have so much to share with you — someday. As many of us know, the gap between self-knowledge and self-actualization can be expansive. So I’ll keep my “Earth knowledge” (as our guide Margaret calls it) close to the chest for now.
Our first stop was the Seven Canyons Golf Course (site of the seven sacred canyons), which is also home to Vision Rock and one of the most powerful vortexes in Sedona. According to sedona.com,
“Sedona vortexes are thought to be swirling centers of energy that are conducive to healing, meditation and self-exploration. These are places where the earth seems especially alive with energy. Many people feel inspired, recharged or uplifted after visiting a vortex.”
After meditating there for about an hour, I left my skepticism behind in favor of gratitude at having witnessed something so spectacular. If that wasn’t enough, we then headed to a second sacred site containing a labyrinth and a medicine wheel. Divided into the four directional quadrants, the medicine wheel beckoned us to enter. Margaret cleansed my aura with chanting before I gingerly stepped within its confines. There within the wheel, additional truths were revealed, each one resonating in a very authentic way. The moments unfolded with a level of personalization and accuracy that I continue to be in awe of. I became a true convert that day, and a believer in Sedona’s powerful spiritual properties and healing energy.
DESERT BOTANICAL GARDENS, PHOENIX
Both Instagram-able and educational, head to this botanical garden in the early morning to avoid crowds and the penetrating desert sun that will assail the senses by 9:30 a.m. The towering cacti and blooming desert plants are breathtaking. And the dwellings of the Sonora people will capture your imagination. It’s a breath of fresh air and well worth the one-time entrance fee ($15-$30).
CRESCENT MOON RIVER PARK, SEDONA
Complete with fly fishing and rushing river waters, a day spent at Crescent Moon River Park is reminiscent of a scene from the Brad Pitt/Robert Redford film, A River Runs Through It. Families and friends alike gather along the slippery rocks at the sweltering height of day to plunge or dip in the river’s icy cold waters. Pack a picnic, your bathing suit, sunscreen and a pair of boat shoes for a day spent at this socially-distant natural wonderland. Oh and bring a camera. The photos you’ll take will be calendar-worthy.
ACCOMODATIONS
Amara’s view of the red rocks is an enviable one. As you enter the outdoor dining area of its Salt Rock Kitchen restaurant, you are afforded a front row view of Sedona’s world-renowned sunset. With such a stunning backdrop, it is no wonder that I witnessed a wedding ceremony while there. Photos of the couple’s small wedding assembled on the lawn — with the enchanting rocks looking on — will most certainly become family heirlooms some day.
The hospitable, “we’re so glad you came” energy of the staff will make you feel right at home. Snag one of their poolside cabanas and again, the red rocks will be front and center as you bathe in the infinity pool and enjoy glorious cocktails. My favorites were the Kokopilli, a coconut cream, pineapple and tequila concoction served over ice, and the passionfruit mocktail, reminiscent of my travels to South America and the Caribbean.
OMNI SCOTTSDALE RESORT & SPA AT MONTELUCIA
I arrived at this lush, sprawling resort on a Wednesday afternoon, greeted by generous sunlight, rows of flowing fountains, ivy plants that wound their way around doorways and light fixtures, and an outside temperature of 96 degrees. My stunning room, with cherry wood and colorful tile finishes, exemplified the Spanish accents that are the hallmark of the entire property (the resort pays homage to Spain’s Andalusian region).
Changing into my swimsuit immediately, I settled in at the adults-only pool. To my delight, a pitcher of ice water and a tangy passion fruit margarita were a satisfying and effective way to cool down poolside. The view of Camelback Mountain is breathtaking from here, and European fountains, Spanish jazz music and richly-colored cabanas will transport you from Arizona to another world (or continent) entirely.
Currently, the resort has chosen not to re-open all of its guest rooms so it never felt crowded or overrun — particularly important now given social distancing restrictions. “Be apart” signs with health and safety guidelines populate the grounds, and reinforce the resort’s commitment to the safety of its patrons. In addition to safety, the entire team (led by General Manager, Patrick Brophy) will bend over backwards to make sure that you are as pampered, well-rested and carefree as possible during this unprecedented and otherwise precarious time.
Crystals, an elaborate winding staircase, and intricate tilework. Ambiance at the Joya Spa is other-worldly. For my spa service, I settled on the Moroccan Orange Blossom Ritual, described on their menu of services as a “relaxing, detoxifying treatment embracing the orange blossom exotic scents of Northern Africa.” Masks were required of both patrons and staff.
My designer, as spa technicians are called at the resort, started by applying a sugar scrub to my entire body. Next, a layer of Rhassoul mud clay was layered on top. Following this, she wrapped my body so that my body heat and the warming bed could “activate” the applied ingredients. While wrapped, my designer massaged my feet with a citrus foot treatment — heavenly! Afterwards, she turned on the in-room shower fully-stocked with Joya’s decadent coconut body wash. When my 80-minute treatment ended, I visited the hot tub and sauna (on the day of your treatment, you are afforded full access to the spa’s facilities). Afterwards, I spent the rest of the day luxuriating by the spa’s rooftop pool, where I enjoyed refreshing libations and savory bites from their menu.
OUTDOOR DINING
El Rincon, Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village, Sedona. “Enjoy your Navajo Mexican food experience,” my waiter said after taking my order. A meal at El Rincon is as authentic as they come and the portion sizes are generous. Their prickly pear margaritas compliment the food perfectly. This was by far my favorite meal while in Sedona.
elements at Sanctuary, 5700 E McDonald Drive, Scottsdale. Luxuriant ambiance with stunning sunset views of Paradise Valley. Order several of their large appetizers to share and indulge in their colorful and inventive cocktail list.
Mountain Shadows, 5445 E Lincoln Drive, Scottsdale. Recommended by Scottsdale locals, this classy resort boasts a generous outdoor lounge that is perfect for grabbing drinks and small bites.
Prado, 4949 E Lincoln Drive, Scottsdale. Upon first glance, your eyes will be greeted by the spacious, opulent décor. But the food and service take center stage at this stunning and authentic Spanish eatery. Prado is known for its delicious dinner paella, loaded up with chorizo, chicken and shellfish of every variety (a veggie version is also available). Another personal favorite: their huevos rancheros entrée at breakfast is one of the best I’ve ever tasted.
