Lisbon, Portugal: My Five-Day Itinerary
SUNDAY
When traveling from the U.S., prepare to be jet lagged when you arrive in Lisbon (especially if you use a long flight to catch up on all of your Netflix and HBOMax). By the time I arrived at the Corinthia Hotel in Lisbon, I was out of sorts. I ordered a pot of mint tea (it was late morning there) and scurried up to my room. Corinthia Lisbon was my travel partner for a portion of my Lisbon stay and they spared no detail in making me feel right at home. I was fortunate enough to snag one of their recently renovated Maritime Suites. I hesitate to use the word suite though — with two bathrooms, two televisions, an office, a walk-in closet, and nightly pastries with turn-down service — it felt more like an apartment.
After a jaw-dropping twirl through my suite — I noted a make-up vanity, two televisions, rainforest showerhead shower, a bidet and a fluffy king-sized mattress — I decided to climb into my huge floor tub with massive up-to-the-ceiling windows boasting a view of city life below. The suite comes with decadent toiletries so I opted for the bath gel (which is also a bubble bath) and a packet of bath salts. I positioned my teapot on the cushion seating adjacent to the tub and sipped hot tea while luxuriating in my bubble bath.
After a quick nap, I decided to leave my comfortable enclave long enough to eat. The LX Factory boasts art murals, eclectic mix of restaurants and shops, live music and a bohemian flea market every Sunday. I settled on a Mexican restaurant, and sat outside for top-tier people watching and margarita drinking. At the flea market I scored a patterned brass ring and an ear cuff with colored stones for 20 Euros.
Back at the Corinthia, I went downstairs to the hotel spa. The spa is one of the largest indoor spas in Lisbon, and comes complete with treatment rooms, a salon, a full-sized indoor pool with outdoor patio, and a water therapy circuit. The therapy circuit was the perfect choice for my jet lag: a series of very cold, followed by warm and hot streams, jets, pools, and whirlpools, along with a sauna and steam room. I blissfully lost track of time in the circuit. Several times I fell asleep and eventually came to, more relaxed than ever as the jets intentionally and methodically worked out every knot and lulled me back to sleep. I spent about two and a half hours there on the first day, and returned each day of my stay.
That night, I dined at Erva, one of the hotel’s incredible restaurants. It was here that I fell in love with green wine, an effervescent libation native to Portugal that is actually white in color. As it was explained to me, the grapes are not fully ripened when fermented (hence the word green), so the wine is lower in sugar and alcohol content (in comparison to white or red wine). You can find it anywhere in Lisbon, and it pairs perfectly with any seafood meal. Speaking of seafood, the grilled squid and the lamb croquettes that I ordered were phenomenal.
MONDAY
Still jet lagged, I awoke late and opted for another visit to the hotel spa. Motivated by hunger and a desire to explore the must-see areas on my list, I took an Uber to Pink Street. Given that I was a solo traveler, I had been told by the concierge that it was best to visit this area in the day (at night it becomes a bit more clubby). There I got my obligatory photo, beneath the famed art installation of colorful, rainbow umbrellas and standing atop concrete that actually is pink in color.
From there, I walked over to Time Out Market Lisboa. This place is a food lover’s dream. You can find sushi, croquettes, steak, seafood, desserts, cocktails and more. I opted for a grilled seafood platter that came with a generously-portioned fish fillet, calamari, and shrimp served with a plate of broccoli. While it is supposed to be a platter for two, I was that hungry and it was that good. It was one of my best meals in Lisbon; I would eventually make my way back there again on my last night there.
From here, I took an Uber to happy hour at Go A Lisboa, a rooftop bar with gorgeous views, R&B music vibes and Morocco-inspired furniture.
TUESDAY and WEDNESDAY
I left Lisbon and headed South to the stunning Algarve region. From Lisbon, the travel possibilities are endless: next time, I may choose to explore Porto or Evora. It’s easy and affordable to zip around the country via the high speed train. Not only is it chic, sophisticated, and comfortable — it’s also a safe alternative if you’re traveling solo and want to avoid driving on unfamiliar roads.
THURSDAY
Back in Lisbon, I kicked off my day with a visit to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (the National Tile Museum) to learn about this form of artistry which is heavily featured throughout the streets of Lisbon — so much so that it is internationally recognized as part of the city’s brand. You’ll learn about etymology (e.g., azulejo, the Portuguese word for tile, has Arabic derivations) and witness the opulence of centuries-old Portuguese churches (think: all gold everything).
For dinner, I visited Bairro do Avillez in the Chiado neighborhood. The venue is open from 12pm — 12am daily, and boasts several different restaurants, each with its own distinct flavor and style. I sat outside and enjoyed a seafood and soupy rice dish that was filling and decadent thanks to the copious amounts of the lobster meat, shrimp and clams. It was one of my pricier meals in Lisbon but incredibly satisfying.
I worked some of my dinner off with a short walk to the famed Tasca do Chico, an understated, slightly cramped bar featuring incredibly live fado musicians each night. Given the close quarters, you will likely be seated with strangers; this lends itself to an friendly, social ambiance where guests interact and greet one another. I spent most of my time lost in the soulful traditional fado music. While I could not understand the words, I felt them somehow and the Portuguese guitar provided the perfect backdrop to this emotional, auditory experience. I met the most amazing crew during the second showing of the night (fellow New Yorkers!). I also finally sampled ginja, a potent, cherry-based liqueur that originates in Lisbon.
FRIDAY
I had an early morning meet-up with Naky, my tour guide and also the creator of the Africa in Lisbon tour, in the harbor-facing plaza of Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square). Our group was primarily composed of Black American tourists. We also had a Portuguese woman in our group. It became clear very early on that she had not learned anything in school about her country’s prolific slave trading, or how it treated Black people both during and post-slavery. According to her, the myth of the “good colonizer” permeated her upbringing with romanticized tales of gentle Portuguese conquerors who fell in love with their colonized inhabitants and built families with them — while the Spanish and British raped and pillaged their conquests throughout the world. She was incredulous to discover on Naky’s tour that those favorable depictions of her country were false.
Africa in Lisbon is a walking tour and I highly recommend it to all, regardless of race or nationality. After a day spent discussing some heavier topics, the tour ended with levity: a group lunch and cocktails al fresco at Mambo, a restaurant featuring delicious African cuisine.
From here, I walked to Java, a gorgeous rooftop bar with an exquisite breeze and impressive water views. It was another rooftop on my Lisbon list, and well worth the trip.
Afterwards, I hopped in an Uber and met my new friends at the incredibly popular Cervejaria Ramiro, a seafood restaurant in the Alfama neighborhood. The menu is extensive — we feasted on sea snails and barnacles — right along with the more familiar shrimp and clams. All were phenomenally flavorful and well-priced at this unpretentious neighborhood gem. Their buttered bread is also worth mentioning. Come prepared to eat well and ready to take a walk on the wilder side in terms of your palate and menu selections.
SATURDAY
Despite the rain, there was already a line formed outside when I arrived at Nicolau for brunch. I heard it was Instagrammable and delicious — and it certainly was (although smaller than I’d imagined). I was seated at a lovely corner table where I could watch the rain from a dry seat. The menu is perfect for those with a sweet tooth but I opted for toast with fluffy cheese and prosciutto. The plan was to head to the world-famous Flea Market, but the rain forced me to make a last-minute schedule change.
I took an Uber to Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia (MAAT). The views here are breathtaking — rain or shine. I explored the two exhibits and then popped next door to have a drink at the MAAT Café & Kitchen. The ambiance is perfection — light jazz music, indoor foliage and a sweeping view of the water that steals the show entirely. For every 30 Euros you spend at the café, you get one free adult admission to the museum. Next time I visit the MAAT, I will start at the MAAT Café (I hear the food is excellent).
Lisbon is known for, among other things, a custard pastry called pastel de nata. From MAAT, I walked over to the famous Pasteis de Belem to sample the most famous pastel de nata of all, derived from a secret recipe that has been shared with the masses since 1837. My pastels were piping hot, fresh from the oven and melt-in-your-mouth memorable. It’s worth the trip to Belem but remember that the line is for people waiting to be seated; you don’t have to wait in it if you’re purchasing your pastels to-go. While in Belem, I visited the Tower of Belem. It’s a major tourist attraction as it is one of the only original buildings to have survived an earthquake in 1755 that decimated much of the region. I saw a bride nearby taking captivating photos with the picturesque, imposing tower behind her.
After a day filled with delicious food — both savory and decadent — and cocktails, I wasn’t starving. But given that it was my last night, I went back to Time Out Lisbon for my favorite meal thus far: the grilled seafood platter. It was just as delicious as I remembered it. I sat next to a couple on a date and was slightly embarrassed by the fact that they were sharing the same platter that I had polished off alone for the second time that week. I also grabbed a pastel de nata from Manteigiara, a modern-day confectionaries with a recipe that many prefer to Pasteis de Belem. My personal opinion? I preferred the pastry of Pasteis de Belem and the custard filling of Manteigiara. For that reason, I’ll likely reach for Manteigiara next time. Definitely sample them both and form your own opinion.
To round out the evening, I met my new friends at Museu do Fado for one last night of fado music. I preferred the ambience of Tasca do Chico where we had all met a few nights prior but the performers at the museum were top-notch. Once again, the Portuguese guitar and the melodious fado lyrics, enveloped us with their haunting and enchanting beauty. It was a perfect farewell to a city that had, in such a short time, become so dear. Até a próxima, Lisboa.
