A Tale of Three Turkish Cities: A Bustling Metropolis, Turquoise Beaches and a “Cotton Castle”
After a devastating series of earthquakes in February that killed 50,000 people, Turkey’s travel industry had been struggling to regain momentum. While Turkey had long been on my travel bucket list, the recent devastation and turmoil made me wonder if a trip to this Eastern European-Western Asian country was, perhaps, ill-timed. I decided to find out. First, I traveled to the bustling, gritty metropolis of Istanbul: a city rich with culture, steeped in history and brimming with both opulence and poverty simultaneously. From there, I retreated to the stunning Turkish Riviera to enjoy the seafood, the views and of course, the renowned deep turquoise waters of Bodrum, the Land of Eternal Blue. It could also be called the Land of the Entitled as privileged travelers from the Middle East, Europe and other regions all congregate here on their yachts or at one of many premier, high-end beach clubs. From here, I ventured about 6 hours away to the thermal baths of Pamukkale, to witness the white travertines flooded with milky calcium deposits, bathe in Cleopatra’s Pool and see the ruins of Hierapolis, an ancient Greek spa town first established in the second century B.C.
At the conclusion of my travels, I asked myself again — after devastation and in the midst of rebuilding — is Turkey still a worthy destination?
The answer came back softly, and yet, unequivocally: yes!
ISTANBUL, TURKEY
Cisterna Basilica. This tour of an underground Roman water storage cellar was on my travel must’s list; and it did not disappoint. I wasn’t even aware of the statue of Medusa lurking in one of its cavernous corners, but once I descended into the cool depths of the cavernous hall, it absolutely resembled the cursed Gorgon’s lair.
Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 streets and over 4,000 shops attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. It is an overwhelming mercantile experience, and one that I don’t recommend traversing alone. Be prepared — not only to haggle — but also to encounter persistent salesmen and women speaking hastily and promising you the best price on an assortment of goods. Be sure to walk a few blocks away to catch a cab — those closer to the Bazaar inflate their rates. And speaking of cabs, you won’t be able to rely on the meter — bring extra cash because they often demand additional cash for tourists and locals alike.
Walking Tour with Culinary Backstreets. For this food tour, we started with breakfast in a youthful neighborhood filled with college students and eventually, ate our way over to the Asian side for various dishes at varied locations — sautéed shrimp, a cocktail of pickled beets and other veggies, tender beef with onions and bread, decadent, creamy ice cream on a sugar cone, and finally, a home-style meal including manti (small homemade noodles stuffed with meat and topped with yogurt and red chili oil).
Balat. The colorful artisan neighborhood of Balat is a welcome change of pace. Wander aimlessly enjoying the quaint shops and color-filled doorways. Stop by for tea, smoothies, or Turkish coffee at Balatantik Cafe. Shop the local boutiques for dresses that embody bohemian chic. Be prepared for other tourists who are also there to capture beautiful photos and remember that the staff will help you take those pictures (but they also expect a tip).
Turkish Baths. An authentic Turkish bath experience is a must when visiting its country of origin. The spa that I visited, in the Radisson Blu Pera, offered coffee and sugar bath experiences but I opted for the original Turkish bath experience. It was incredible. While resting on a heated slab of marble, a bubbly solution was applied to the skin and quite honestly — the rest is a bit of a blur. I enjoyed a luxurious experience at my hotel partner spa, the Radisson Blu Pera.
Rooftop Dining. The rooftop restaurants in Istanbul boast stunning, unfathomable views. I highly recommend Ulus 29 both for the gorgeous vistas and for the food. My branzino was prepared to perfection and the wine list is stellar. It gives date night or celebration dinner energy, but it’s also just the kind of elegant ambiance that could suit any occasion.
Sunset Bar and Grill specializes in sushi and sunsets. And while it wasn’t the best sushi I’ve ever had, the restaurant possesses a grandiose view that even eclipses that of Ulus 29. Large red bow-like structures populate the massive roof deck, as do tables of various lengths. This is clearly the place for large group dinners under the stars. I can’t speak highly enough of both dining experiences.
Bosphorus Cruise, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia: There are various tours that include all three of these in one and to that end, I highly recommend the Viator tour that incorporates each of them plus the Cisterna Basilica. Given the relatively small size of our tour group, our tour guide — @yourguideinturkey — was willing to be flexible and take us to the places that were high on our list. As a result, we ended up with a tour that was customized to our own interests, which is rare.
Pera Neighborhood. I enjoyed staying in Istanbul’s Pera neighborhood because this vibrant area within Istanbul is chockful of art, culture, shopping and nightlife. My hotel partner, Radisson Blu Pera, is located in walking distance of Istiklal Avenue, the famed pedestrian boulevard filled with shopping and restaurants. A member of Soho House? Soho House Istanbul is located right here, offering sophisticated ambiance, delicious passionfruit margaritas, and mesmerizing rooftop vibes. And while there, make a mouthwatering stop at Cecconi’s Istanbul to enjoy sumptuous Italian food and perfectly seasoned seafood. As much as I love seafood, Turkey is known for its meat kebabs — and back at the Radisson Blu Pera, I sampled the country’s famed cuisine at Hamdi Restaurant, a rooftop establishment with beautiful views of the Golden Horn.
PAMUKKALE, TURKEY
The “Cotton Castle” + Cleopatra’s Pool. This magical place appears to be a collection of snow covered rocks. Upon closer investigation, it is a series of natural thermal baths which formed over calcium deposits (i.e., “the snow). Calcium gives the thermal waters a milky color and a dip into these bodies of water is said to be healing. Pamukkale, the Turkish city where this attraction is located, actually means “cotton castle,” named after the white, snow-like formations surrounding the travertines. Nearby, enjoy the ruins of Hierapolis and Cleopatra’s Pool. The water is also warm but now aquamarine in it’s coloring. It is said that Cleopatra herself bathed here, and found that she was even more beautiful when she emerged from its waters. Fallen columns and other ruins litter her pool, making it feel like a journey back in time.
BODRUM, TURKISH RIVIERA
Momo Beach Club. This is a great beach club for full day of amazing food, top-notch cocktails and a full fledged dance party beach side. This place can only be described as “a vibe” — contained within the already stunning vacation experience that is the “Land of Eternal Blue.” Hands down, after this initial visit, one of my favorite spots in Turkey so far.
Bodrum City Center. This city center boasts the Bodrum Castle, amazing food alongside the pebbly beach, and incredible shops offering knockoff goods but also amazing leather sandals, jewelry and sunglasses. I spent an afternoon having lunch and watching families frolic and dive in the frothy sea. It was peaceful and the seafood was dynamic. The shrimp I ordered was piping hot and still cooking on a scalding iron skillet when it arrived at my table. And yes, it burned my mouth because when it comes to good seafood, I’m greedy.
Yalikavik Marina. Picture a collection of high-end, designer shops (LV, Gucci, Versace, et al.) interspersed with an active marina that brims with opulence, luxurious yachts and wealthy boaters. Dining options here range from casual to fine. Nightlife abounds as well at Zuma and Bagatelle, among others, with both restaurants located right on the water. I enjoyed the food at Zuma the most, but found the party vibes at Bagatelle to be the most exhilarating. This was largely due to an epic DJ set, compelling people to dance at their tables and even jump into the pool fully clothed. Celebrating a birthday? Bagatelle’s unforgettable tribute is set to the sounds of Rick Ross and features a cameo by The Joker (from the Batman movies).
Radisson Collection Hotel, Bodrum. Luxurious, spacious, convenient and accommodating — I really can’t wait to come back to this property. This was one of my hotel partners on this trip and it was by far the most impressive. It’s truly remarkable how expansive this hotel compound really is. There’s a supermarket, a marina, and a few shops with everything from clothing, to furniture and tobacco. The hotel is located right on the beach, in an area well-known for wind surfing. The suites are lovely and modern — mine had multiple bathrooms and sliding glass doors between them to make privacy achievable— even while traveling with guests. The balconies were expansive and inviting, as were the sitting areas. And there are so many restaurants here: sushi, gastro pub, buffet-style, and smoothies. My favorite is called Hadi Balik . There’s a reason why this restaurant is named #1 for seafood in Bodrum City: their sautéed shrimp, fresh fish fillets and reasonable pricing kept me coming back during my week-long stay.
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